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  • About
    • Our History
    • Our Team
  • Jewelry
    • Designers >
      • A & Furst
      • A. Link
      • Anne Sportun
      • Bez Ambar
      • Brevani
      • Charms
      • Devon Woodhill
      • Jade Trau
      • Jane Win
      • Melissa Kaye
      • Michael Bondanza
      • Moritz Glik
      • Page Sargisson
      • Pasquale Bruni
      • Roberto Coin
      • Samantha Louise
      • SOHO
      • Wedding Bands
    • Rings
    • Bracelets
    • Necklaces
    • Earrings
  • Bridal
    • Jewel School
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Jewel School

Learn which cut means what

When people think about diamonds, they think about the 4 C’s that are always mentioned. While those characteristics certainly play a factor into finding the perfect stone, there is so much more that we put into choosing a stone here at Browning and Sons.

Cut; the skill at which the diamond is cut, determining how well it reflects and refracts light.
Color; The natural color or lack of color visible within a diamond.
Clarity; the natural inclusions and blemishes on and within a diamond.
Carat; the unique weight used to determine gemstones.

Once you come in to begin your journey with us searching for a stone, we can show you the other details that we search for while comparing diamonds. The measurements, polish and symmetry of a stone transform the final product into something magnificent. These are factors that are not visible just on a sheet of paper, but have to be articulated in person.

We look forward to servicing your needs and helping make the process of finding a diamond seamless and painless.
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Round

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Alternatively known as "Round Brilliant", "American Ideal" or "American Standard". With 57 facets, this cut is most efficient in capturing a stone’s brilliance and sparkle. Although there is no single inventor for the round cut invention, many sources name Vincenzio Perruzzi, a Venetian cutter from the 18th century. The round cut has undergone many, many transformations over the years in an effort to manipulate the facets in the best way possible to optimize the dispersion of light in a stone. Among the most notable round cuts the  "Old Single Cut", "Rounded Single Cut", "Old European Cut, "Jubilee Cut", "Royal Cut", and the"Basic Brilliant Cut".

Oval

The Oval cut was created by Lazare Kaplan in the late 1950’s – early 1960’s. It presents with an elliptical shape when viewed from the top, and can be described as a hybrid between round and marquise shapes. Crafted with 69 facets, it is a type of a modified brilliant cut, which offers its wearer the brilliance and fire of a round cut gemstone, in a more unique shape. Its elongated silhouette is an added advantage, because it creates the illusion of a larger gemstone, and allows a finger to look longer and slimmer when wearing it. ​
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Marquis

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This football shaped cut is also known as Navette Cut, and is crafted with 57 facets. It is a type of a modified brilliant cut, meaning it was cut to reflect the most light and offer maximum sparkle and color. It’s important to note that if a gem is cut too shallow, the light will pass through the back of the gem thereby reducing its color and sparkle. Striving for perfect symmetry is another important factor in crafting Marquise cut gemstones. The two end points must line up with each other precisely and the two halves of the stone should be perfect copies of each other. This will ensure that the stone sits properly in its setting, minimizing future chipping or breakage. The Marquise cut diamond was commissioned by King Louis XIV of France to present to his love, Marquise de Pompadour. With its long lines and elongated silhouette, it was supposed to resemble her perfectly shaped smile. Furthermore, its elongated shape flatters the finger, making it appear longer and slimmer.

Pear

Fashioned in a shape of a gleaming teardrop, a Pear cut gemstone can be described as a hybrid between an Oval cut and a Marquise cut with a tapered point on one end. It is a type of a modified Round Brilliant cut and therefore offers 71 facets which reflect light beautifully and allow color to showcase dramatically. The first Pear cut diamond was crafted by a Flemish polisher Louis van Berquem of Belgium in 1458. When crafting a Pear cut gemstone, it is important to aim for perfect symmetry. The point should align with the peak of the rounded end. Pear cut gemstones require a special 6 prong setting, with a prong to maintain support for its fragile point. Most women wear the pointed end of the Pear cut gemstone in the direction of the fingernail, although that largely depends on the wearer’s choice. The elongated silhouette of a Pear cut ring lengthens and slims its wearer’s finger, making it an attractive choice not only for earrings and pendants, but for rings as well.
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Cushion

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Once referred to as "Old Mine Cut" or "Old European Cut", this cut presents with approximately 64 facets and offers a basic square shape with gently rounded corners, making it look like a couch cushion. It may also be referred as a "Pillow Cut". Just like a Princess cut, this cut maximizes utilizing the raw gem in the best way possible to avoid waste while simultaneously maintaining fabulous gem luster and brilliance. This traditional cut has been around for 200 years, and has been the industry standard before the start of 20th century. Some cushion cuts may appear slightly oval in their shape.

Emerald

The Emerald Cut is shaped like a rectangle from the top, with trimmed corners. With approximately 50 facets, this particular cut presents with fewer facets than Round or Square cuts. The emphasis here is not so much on the sparkle, but on the gem’s clarity and color. Color tends to show very vividly in Emerald cut gemstones. In lighter colored gemstones, this cut can be quite dazzling with broader and more striking flashes of light, with the light bouncing between the light and dark surfaces of the gem, as if looking into a hall of mirrors. This cut was originally designed for cutting emeralds. Since emeralds occur in nature with numerous inclusions, cutting them is especially difficult due to potential chipping. The Emerald cut addressed those issues by decreasing the amount of force applied during cutting and protecting the stone from breakage. Eventually, this cut was used for diamonds and other gemstones as well. Customers were particularly drawn to this unique and stylish newer style, as its elongated shape looks particularly flattering on a finger. ​
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Princess

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​The Princess Cut was created in the 1960's by Arpad Nagy in an effort to maintain the brilliance and sparkle, yet still provide an alternative to the classic round cut. It is typically seen in the shape of a square but can sometimes be rectangular. With up to 76 facets, the brilliance of a princess cut is so reminiscent of its’ brilliant round cousin that it is sometimes called a “square modified brilliant”. The sharp corners of a princess cut provides a bolder look than the other square shape cuts and this style is the second most popular cut for engagement rings. 

Asscher

​The Asscher Cut is an octagonal diamond and features the same ‘step’ cut as the Emerald style but comes in the shape of a square with angled corners. The way these two styles mix creates a concentric, ‘square-within-a-square’ look that mesmerizes and captivates. A style created in the 1900’s, they peaked in popularity in the 1920’s and have a Gatsby-esque appeal. Making a comeback in the early 2000’s, Asscher cuts are once again being recognized and coveted for their unique look that is unlike any other cut. Famously worn by Elizabeth Taylor, this cut with its art-deco air and vintage elegance brings romance to life.  
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46 S. Washington Street | Hinsdale, IL 60521
(630) 986-0880 
info@browningandsons.com

Store Hours
Tuesday-Friday 10:00am-5:00pm
Saturday 10:00am-4:00pm
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Deliveries and custom appointments
Call 630-986-0880
Or email info@browningandsons.com

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